Transmission Journal

Veras.

The stressful task of trying to decide on a decent pair of summer shoes usually starts at the end of summer so it is with great care and perfect timing that the good people at Veras have released their latest batch of creations into the world. The superior Spanish shoemakers and brainchild of Welsh sole-boy Neil Morris, have produced an uplifting collection for S/S13 that underlines their quality and celebrates their success. For a few years now Veras have kept turning-over a winning hand whether launching new ranges or freshening up key designs and the S/S13 shoes are cut from the same cloth.

To those of a certain cultural vintage Veras summer shoes give-off a whiff of the fabled cord shoe and this, as you know, is a very good thing indeed. The suede Seville has the advantage of being produced in the finest fabric for shoe-making and ticks most of the boxes on the perfect summer shoe spreadsheet.(Obviously nothing ticks them all yet).

Veras take a well-toned, post-casual approach to shoemaking, offering another successful example of British style engaging with and adapting European design.  Their popular mesh espadrilles are already well on their way to being a style classic and the suede Seville looks like being another serious contender. From the sands of Playa de Puerto Rey to the shores of Port Talbot, a pair of Veras will carry a gentleman along a righteous path.

Veras S/S13 collection will be available at, Quarter Store (Hong Kong), CHCM (New York) Royal Cheese (Paris), Number Six (London) and Oi Polloi in Manchester. As usual numbers are (righteously) limited so if you’re planning on owning a pair (like you should be) you’d be best to do it sharpish or else move to Japan.

Words: Michael Richardson / @realsuedeshoes

Proper #12.

Perfect for your late summer jolly or indeed just for some good reading while on the bog, Proper #12 has landed. Over the years we’ve seen Proper go from a humble fanzine to its current incarnation as a fully-fledged, ‘proper’ magazine. The last two issues were a massive step up for the chaps at Proper HQ but they’ve stepped it up further with their 80-page twelfth issue.

Teaming up with the designer from Oi Polloi’s Pica-Post and getting Ben Lamb on board to do a front cover that is ace and mental in equal amounts, the latest installment is all about that trend you’ve haven’t heard of yet but soon will have: Hikerdelia. Expect the usual exclusive interviews with the likes of Oak Street Bootmakers, Folk, Topo Designs, Marshall Artist and loads more. Expect the usual sweary rants from Casuals’ author Phil Thornton and Salford’s Ian Hough and – most importantly – expect the usual great insight into great clothes and shoes that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

All of this plus loads more can be found in the latest issue. If you haven’t done so already, Proper can be purchased from their website for the bargain price of £7.

Ideas from Massimo Osti.

Technical clothing and high spec functional outerwear in particular, appears to be going through somewhat of a renaissance right now. Whether this is due to a backlash against the ‘heritage’ styles that seem to have swamped both the high street and the boutiques, a change in fashion or a combination of the two, there is little doubt that proper technical jackets are returning to the fore once again.

One man who has perhaps contributed more to this style than any other designer is the legendary Massimo Osti. The late Italian - most notably through his work with C.P. Company and Stone Island – helped to revolutionise men’s style forever. Through a combination of his own innovative ideas and ideas gained through almost endless research into military clothing and workwear, Osti implemented techniques and materials into sportswear that had never been seen before.

Ideas from Massimo Osti is a celebration of the man’s work and lasting influence on the industry. The 412-page book is written and edited by Osti’s wife Daniela Facchinato and includes over 500 images (many of which have never been published before). Insight into Osti’s legacy is provided not only by close collaborators but also by other hugely respected figures including Paul Smith and Paolo Zegna.

The book is available in both a Trade Edition and a Limited Edition. Both are available for purchase from the Ideas from Massimo Osti website.

Mod, Meet Rocker.

Ben Sherman have had somewhat of a reinvention in recent years, moving away from catalogue fodder and becoming a decent clothing label again with the recently discontinued Modern Classics being a particular highlight. While the demise of Modern Classics is unfortunate, the brand’s main range does look promising with blazers and nice checked shirts featuring prominently.

To help showcase their forthcoming winter collection Ben Sherman have put together a ‘Mod, Meet Rocker’ campaign. Styled by Glenn Kitson and photographed by Antony Crook (both of Rig Out fame) the shoot shows some of the best clobber from the new Ben Sherman range and thankfully avoids any scrapping on Brighton’s beaches.

The new Ben Sherman collection is available to order from their website.

Tuk Your Shirt In!

Every man and his dog seems to have attempted some sort of collaboration or collab lately. More often than not the results are underwhelming; a way for companies to cash in on the hype their product generates on blogs and forums without having to put too much thought into actually producing something worthy of the inflated price tag these joint efforts tend to receive.

It was for these reasons that we were a bit unsure what to expect when we heard that two of our favourite brands – Stockport’s Connoisseurs and South Asia’s TukTuk – had chosen to team up together to release a set of shirts (or shirtings if you’re a fashion bore/read too much Inventory). Fortunately they look to have got it bang on.

There’s an ace Madras check going by the name of ‘Ray’. We’ve been led to believe it’s named after Ray Winstone’s shirt in ‘Nil By Mouth’ and this comes with features galore including a button down collar and three utility pockets (one conveniently sized for Zippo lighters). Following this up is a seriously fruity number known as the ‘Richardson’, a nod to that rather odd photographer. Rounding off the range is the ‘Raoul’ shirt. This psychedelic offering may remind you of a bad acid trip but if it doesn’t then you’ve no excuse not to get it. It’ll make you look cool as fuck.

These are scheduled for a release next month. Check out Issue #1 of the Transmission Journal fanzine for an exclusive interview with the Connoisseurs.

Batten Sportswear.

Having worked under Daiki Suzuki at Woolrich Woolen Mills for four years, Shinya Hasegawa’s first label, Batten Sportswear, is that rarity – a genuinely exciting new clothing label. Drawing inspiration from his time under Suzuki, as well as vintage outdoor schmutter and the Californian surfing culture of the late sixties and early seventies, Hasegawa’s debut Batten Sportswear collection features some really great stuff. The highlight for us at Transmission is the Travel Shell Parka (pictured) in a really ace shade of blue as well as the Packable Anorak Smock.

This is a very promising first collection indeed, and can now be purchased from Oi Polloi. One to keep an eye on, we think.

Winter Headweir.

With it starting to get colder than a witch’s tit, it’s about time to invest in some proper winter warmers. You’ve probably already got your jacket sorted and your hiking boots are beginning to be broken in. But if you’ve not got a top winter hat sorted as yet, then thankfully the Connoisseurs have come up with a new take on an old favourite.

The Weir hat, its name a nod to the geeky cool of Scotland’s Tom Weir, has becoming something of a cult in certain circles – selling out faster and faster year on year. Having really upped their game this year with impressive first attempts at jackets and shirts, it’s good to see that the Connoisseurs haven’t turned their back on this old favourite.

Made of double layered acryllic to allow for more use of colour, the hats are designed to stretch to fit all head shapes and sizes. Available in three brand new colours and in highly limited quantities, one thing is for sure – these won’t hang around.

Primed for an early December release, the Weir hat will be available for purchase at the Connoisseur website.

UVU - Extreme Craftsmanship.

Convinced heritage is getting stale? Looking for something new? Something innovative? Something to make you stand out from the crowd? UVU might be just what you’re looking for.

Dominic Stansfield is a name that may be familiar to many of you, having worked for the likes of PF Flyers and having seen success with his ace Stansfield clothing label, and UVU marks his exciting return to the fold.  This is James Bond stuff, right at the cutting edge - technical clothing made from only the best performance fabrics. Think Japanese spun sweatshirts that are waterproofed via nano-technology coating and you begin to get a picture of just what this brand offers.

Of course all of this would count for nothing if UVU didn’t look great, but fortunately they’re doing a damn good job on that aspect too. And with production taking place with the KTC Factory in China – a manufacturer of high end outdoors and sportswear for over thirty years – you can rest assured that these are quality bits of clothing, made to last.

UVU will launch next year with a number of lines ranging from performance to lifestyle. Stay tuned for updates at UVU.

Drive.

Yes, we’re a bit late with this one, we know. For one reason or another getting round to seeing Drive has been a bit of a pain. But good things come to those who wait, don’t they? And Drive is definitely a good thing.

Drive is centred upon the Driver (Ryan Gosling) – the film’s nameless protagonist who supplements his day job as a stuntman by moonlighting as a getaway driver for Los Angeles underworld figures at night. He says and does very little (save for chewing on a toothpick constantly) but can’t help falling for Irene (Carey Mulligan), his neighbour and wife to a soon to be released crook. The Driver’s decision to get involved in the robbery of a pawnshop proves to be a major fuck up on his behalf – setting in motion a chain of events which include skull crushing, motel shootouts, east coast mobsters and enough blood to put you off your popcorn.

The violence, which there is more than a fair share of, is quick and brutal, in keeping with the film’s darkly comic feel. Director Nicolas Winding Refn is on top form. While few cities can evoke sleaze better than LA, Refn makes brilliant use his location, elevating it beyond a mere backdrop and paying clear tribute to other classics such as Michael Mann’s Heat.

This film mines the eighties relentlessly to even the smallest details, like the Miami Vice-styled font used in the opening credits. On the face of it Drive offers nothing new. It’s a familiar story in a familiar setting but everything about this film is pitched perfectly. Gosling is superb and clearly on course to be one of Hollywood’s leading men, giving a performance eerily reminiscent of De Niro in Taxi Driver. Albert Brooks and Ron Perlman also give star turns as the Jewish mobsters with their backs against the wall. Something should also be said about the soundtrack. Simply put, it is a perfect accompaniment to the film, and one that will stay in your head for days after you’ve seen (or should that be heard?) it.

So, what’s left to say about Drive?

Is it this year’s best film? Maybe. This year’s coolest? Definitely. A future classic? We reckon so.

Few people make footwear as good as the moccasin men at Quoddy, which is no surprise given their hundred year history. Set up by Harry Smith Shorey way back in 1909, Quoddy has gained an enviable reputation for fine craftsmanship, great materials and simple but spot on design. You’re unlikely to find many better examples of the moccasin out there.

Harry prided himself on the performance of the shoe and was obsessive in ensuring that the manufacturing process made the best quality shoe possible. The video aboves shows a bit of an insight into the effort that goes into making the great quality end product at Quoddy’s HQ in Passamaquoddy Bay, Maine.